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Jens A. Hald Al-Sheikhali

Article and project: Jens A. Hald Al-Sheikhali, Liv Thorsted, Nikolaj Boy Sørensen & Amalie Kjær Andersen
Published: 01/11 2024
Theme: The Lindbergh Community

Join us behind the scenes as our colleague, Jens AI-Sheikhali, embarks on one of the greatest adventures of his life. Climbing Kilimanjaro has long been on his bucket list, and now his dream is about to become a reality. Watch and read more about his journey in this article.

What is the motivation for climbing Kilimanjaro? Why do you feel drawn to this particular adventure?

I have been an outdoor enthusiast for many years but have mostly pursued it at home, aside from a single trip to some mountains in Norway. Back in 2019, I got the idea of Kilimanjaro, primarily because it is one of “The 7 Summits” (the highest mountains on each of the 7 continents) that can be climbed without needing to do any technical climbing. I thought it would be a great challenge to see if I could actually do it, as well as to experience another continent.

A few months after I had been considering it, I had dinner with my dad, where he suddenly said, “I’ve been thinking about climbing Kilimanjaro in Africa, and it has to be before I turn 70.” I still remember how I started laughing and told him that I had actually been considering the same thing. So, we ended up making it a father/son thing, which undoubtedly made it a much bigger experience.

The project was put on hold for a few years due to travel restrictions (COVID) and so on. So, it’s amazing that we finally managed to go this year.

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Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia

The journey to Tanzania

Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia

Day 1: The journey to the summit begins

We got up at 6:00 in the morning, where we checked our gear. It's important that it doesn't weigh too much. The large backpack can weigh a maximum of 15 kilos, and the guides carry that. We also have a small backpack that we carry ourselves, where we can decide how much to pack, but it should ideally not weigh more than 10 kilos; otherwise, it becomes very heavy.

We had a 3-hour drive to the base of the mountain at Lemosho Gate, and then the hike began. The next 8 days will be tough but hopefully an exciting adventure. On the first day, we ended up at Base Camp, which is 2,700 meters up. It was very sunny, and we saw monkeys; it was a good first hike that took about 5-6 hours. We could wear T-shirts, so it was perfect, but you really have to remember the sunscreen.

Can you describe what was going through your mind when you started the hike?

It was a mix of excitement and a little nervousness. Nervousness about whether I was ready, both physically and mentally. Traveling to an entirely different continent and country that you can't relate to, as it's so far from what you're used to, then going even further away from anything recognizable and out into the completely unknown, but that was also what made it exciting. Finally starting something I had been thinking about and planning for so long.

There had been a long period of preparation, and now it was all culminating at that moment. You also start at a place where there are many people, so you're looking at what they are wearing and what gear they have. Did I pack the right things and enough? I can also remember looking up at the path we were supposed to follow, how in our group we had agreed beforehand that if anyone had to give up, the agreement was that everyone else would continue, and you don't know how the altitude or other factors will affect you. It's something you can never train for or prepare yourself for. The unknown.

What was your impression of the others in the group you were going to the summit with?

The others in the group were a couple of friends my dad knew, and one of their mutual friends, so in a way, I felt a bit like "the odd man out." However, we had the flight down there and two days at the hotel, where we talked a lot, so all in all, I couldn't have traveled with a better group. The mood was always high, and there was great motivation among everyone. They also seemed just as excited about this adventure and whether we could succeed in reaching the summit.

Victor Garcia
It's something you can never train for or prepare yourself for. The unknown.

- Jens AI-Sheikhali

Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia

Day 2: Challenging weather

At 6:00 AM, we woke up to very bad weather with both a storm and heavy rain, and it continued like that all day. This day was considerably more challenging; there are many mountains, and we are getting higher and higher. We ended up at Chiawa Camp 1, which is at 3,650 meters altitude. Today's hike was also about 6 hours long, covering 8.3 kilometers. It rained continuously, and there was a lot of mud. You also have to be cautious of the many rocks, but fortunately, no one got hurt, and I was lucky enough not to be affected by altitude sickness.

Could you keep the spirits up despite the difficult terrain and severe weather?

It probably helped a bit that it was January and we were coming from Denmark. So, swapping snow and cold for rain and warmth was still something I viewed positively, even though you could long for a ray of sunshine after 8 hours in the rain. Another thing was that I had rented a rain poncho at the hotel, just as a little extra precaution. That was probably one of the best investments for the trip, as it kept both me and my backpack dry.

What was the most challenging part at this point? Was there anything that surprised you?

At this point, the most challenging thing was definitely that the rain had been ongoing for so long that it was really muddy and slippery. You had to place your feet very carefully when climbing steep inclines or crossing small rivers to avoid slipping or twisting your ankle.

The pace surprised me a bit; there weren’t many breaks scheduled or time to just enjoy nature and the surroundings. You’re very focused on the path ahead and placing your feet correctly, so you forget to look up and enjoy the jungle. It also surprised me that despite a whole day of overcast weather and rain, I managed to burn my hands from the sun since they were the only parts not covered due to the weather.

Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia

Day 3: Burnt hands, but in good spirits

We were hiking from Chiawa Camp 1 to Chiawa Camp 2, which was a 10-kilometre trek. Today had manageable terrain and was the easiest day so far, but it started with bad weather.

When we were ready to set off in the morning, fully geared up, we had only taken a few steps when it started to rain, so we had to head back to camp and bundle up for the rain. After an hour, the weather cleared up; it was still very cloudy, but the sun did peek through a couple of times.

A good tip is always to apply sunscreen, even when it's cloudy and rainy. My hands are completely burnt right now; fortunately, it doesn’t hurt as badly as it looks. I hope it’s a mild burn, but it looks quite severe. Otherwise, everyone is happy; our guides are fantastic, and we’re getting good food. Everyone on the team is still in good spirits; no one has experienced anything negative. We have to go to bed early every day because we wake up many times during the night, and you really need the sleep to have the energy for the next day.

From Chiawa Camp 2, we continued up to 4000 metres in altitude. It took 1.5 hours to reach that point and then return to camp. That short hike was to prepare us for tomorrow, when we will go to Lava Tower. It’s expected to be the hardest day so far, and when we reach Lava Tower, we’ll be at about 4750 metres, so I think this will be the first time we really feel the effects of altitude sickness. Hopefully, it will just be mild symptoms like headaches, etc., but we’ll see.

If someone feels unwell along the way, how is that handled by the guides? Do they carry medications, and is there a doctor present?

The guides continuously monitor the group, and there’s a check every evening after we’ve eaten. Our guide comes in and measures our pulse and blood oxygen levels, and we answer some questions about whether we have headaches, nausea, diarrhea, dizziness, etc.

We’ve been told that you can continue even if you have several symptoms of altitude sickness, and this is where the mental aspect comes into play. It’s about whether you’re strong enough to keep going, even if you don’t feel your best. However, if you develop serious distress and have trouble breathing and need oxygen, that’s the end of the line. You will be assisted down the mountain, and you won’t be allowed to continue.

Did you feel safe at this point?

Yes, I did, and it was also another advantage to be in such a good group, where we all felt responsible for keeping an eye on each other to make sure everyone was doing okay.

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We’ve been told that you can continue even if you have several symptoms of altitude sickness, and this is where the mental aspect comes into play. It’s about whether you’re strong enough to keep going, even if you don’t feel your best.

- Jens AI-Sheikhali

Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia

Day 4: "Polepole"

It’s quite foggy here at Barranco Camp, or actually, it’s not fog; we’re so high up now that it’s clouds. Some of them contain a lot of water, but that’s just how it is. As I mentioned yesterday, today would be tough, and it really was. You walk very slowly when you're above 4000 meters. The guides keep saying "polepole," which means "slowly." Today’s hike was good. We saw a lot of different things; everything from small bushes to big mountains.

On the way to Barranco Camp, we passed a waterfall that we had to descend, all while it was snowing. There were a couple of American groups behind us who said it was crazy and very dangerous, but we managed it and got down safely. The descent by the waterfall was much harder than going up. I haven’t experienced altitude sickness yet, and at Barranco Camp, we've arrived at an altitude of 3900 meters. It’s always the case that we hike high, but we sleep a little lower. Now we only have two days left, which is exciting.

How did you handle the situation at the waterfall when you realized it was quite challenging? How did you feel when you had made your way down?

I could immediately feel, both in myself and in the whole group, that there was full focus and no time for photos or chatting. Everyone just made sure to help each other down the waterfall one step at a time. We constantly checked with our trekking poles to see if the next stones felt slippery, loose, or safe to step on.

Actually, there weren’t many emotions for me when we reached the bottom. I think we got about 200-300 meters away before we took a short break, and it was only then, when we turned around and saw the waterfall from a distance, that we realised what we had just been through. For me, it was probably a feeling of joy and relief that we had all managed yet another challenge very well.

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On the way to Barranco Camp, we passed a waterfall that we had to descend, all while it was snowing. There were a couple of American groups behind us who said it was crazy and very dangerous, but we managed it and got down safely.

- Jens AI-Sheikhali

Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia

Days 5 and 6: Not far to the top

Another day has passed, and we are now at Karanga Camp. We started the day by climbing Barranco Wall, which was steep and very high—probably over 100 meters—where we climbed all the way to the top.

Just before the summit, there was a "kissing stone," which is named so because you get so close to it that you can kiss it. We weren’t aware of this before climbing the wall, so we didn’t have any safety gear with us. It’s not mentioned in any brochures or anything, but it is what it is, though I can see how it might scare some people. It was an awesome experience; fortunately, I’ve climbed before. Everyone made it through well, and the weather was on our side; we had sunshine and warmth all the way up, which was fantastic.

Shortly after, we arrived at Karanga Camp, where we had dinner, and then it started raining. It was heavy rain. It looked intense as it streamed down the mountain. Fortunately, we didn’t get any water in the tents, and later, the sun started shining again.

I would say it was one of the best days of the trip, so that’s good. My hands are still very burnt, but I’m managing. We received the instructions for tomorrow, where we’ll be going on a short hike to a camp at an altitude of 4650 meters, which is higher than where we are now at about 4000 meters.

Tomorrow will also be a big day because when we get to where we need to be, we’ll have lunch, then we’ll sleep for a few hours until dinner, and then we’ll sleep again. At midnight tomorrow, the guides will wake us up to start the ascent to the summit, which is going to be wild; I’m looking forward to it. I still haven’t experienced altitude sickness, but I have pain in one knee that I need to have checked out tomorrow, but I’m feeling positive.

How is your sleep at this point? Can you elaborate on what happened with your knee? Was it something you were worried about?

Sleep has become more sporadic, mostly consisting of longer rests or short periods of sleep that never quite turn into deep sleep. I brought some noise-cancelling earplugs, which I used at times to get as much quiet as possible when trying to sleep, and that helped a bit.

Regarding my knee, it was purely overexertion. I didn’t have any issues while going up, but coming down was simply too much strain in the long run. It’s also something that surprised me when I reflected on the trip; when climbing a mountain, you always think of going up, but you also spend a lot of time descending in very steep terrain.

At this point, I could barely take a step down without compensating by only landing on my right leg to absorb the shock, which was almost unbearable. I would much rather climb 3 kilometers higher than go down 100 meters at this point.

I wasn’t worried that it would become a showstopper for me as long as I didn’t feel it while going up. At that point, I could just put the thought aside, and I figured I would deal with that "problem" when we reached the top and had to go all the way down.

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Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia

Days 7 and 8: Adrenaline pumping

On Day 8, you reach the summit; can you describe the experience? Was it what you had imagined? Could you enjoy it, or were you too exhausted?

When I was woken up at midnight and turned on my headlamp, the entire inside of my outer tent was glimmering with frost. It was quite special. Stepping out into a starry night with a full moon gave me a feeling of extra energy and motivation to tackle the last 5 kilometers. This day was undoubtedly the most mentally demanding experience I’ve ever put myself through, and I had probably underestimated it because everything had gone so well up until then.

It took 7 hours to walk those 5 kilometers, so saying that the pace was very slow is probably an understatement. That wasn’t the hard part; it was more that we were no longer just ourselves. We were practically a snake of people all trying to reach the summit for sunrise, and we were moving so slowly that there was neither space nor speed to overtake anyone.

The last 5 kilometers were filled with many stops, and I didn’t get into a good flow during my ascent, while I also experienced symptoms of altitude sickness for the first time. I had a headache, felt slightly dizzy if I looked anywhere other than at my feet, and had stomach issues, though thankfully, it didn’t escalate. Additionally, some groups were playing all sorts of music from small speakers they carried, which created a lot of noise that, at least for me, negatively affected my experience. So, if I were to describe the first 4 kilometers, it was a bit of hell. I don’t think I said more than 5-10 words that night on the way up because I was just maxed out.

The last kilometer was walked as the sun was rising over 70 cm of snow and above the clouds. It felt a bit like walking on another planet when I reached the top and looked around. At the same time, getting hit by the light was a huge mental boost, along with the sound of stepping in the snow while everything was completely silent. Everyone was so exhausted that there was no talking at all. So, walking there with snow all around and clouds like a sea on the horizon was truly magical.

Finally, you reach the infamous sign where everyone takes their picture to prove they reached the summit, and that was a real nightmare. People were just standing in a big clump, annoyed and arguing over whose turn it was to take a picture, and that part felt more like "just getting it over with" than actually enjoying it. I would almost advise anyone reaching the summit to focus on everything else but that sign. Additionally, you only have about 10 minutes up there before it’s time to head back down again. Partly due to exhaustion and the thin air, you really have to soak up as much of the experience as possible.

Did everyone in the group reach the summit? How long did it take you to come back down?

Yes, the whole group made it to the top, which was really cool. Standing there with my dad was also a special moment for me. What made it even cooler was that when we returned to the camp we had left that night to reach the summit, Lars from our group surprised us with five gold medals that he had engraved with our names and that we had reached the summit. It was a really fun and special thing, and in hindsight, it made it even more significant that we all made it to the top; otherwise, it might have felt a bit flat for some.

The descent went really quickly and only took 1.5 days, but with too few breaks for our taste. Especially considering that we had been going since midnight, which ended up meaning we had been up and going for about 20 hours straight that day. So we were pretty exhausted, and the actual route down is different from the one taken up, and you don’t have to acclimatise, so it goes much faster.

However, that meant my knee suffered tremendously again, and it was almost unbearable. We had a section of about 10 kilometers that can best be described as poorly constructed, wide steps made of mortar and uneven stones, where each step was between 30-50 cm high. The shock it sent up through my knee with each step down was awful, but we made it down.

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The whole group made it to the top, which was really cool. Standing there with my dad was also a special moment for me.

- Jens AI-Sheikhali

Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia
Victor Garcia

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